Tuesday, July 14, 2009

July 14, 2009

Well.....if this is July 14th then it must be our last full day in Ireland :(

Got off to a bit of a slow start this morning and were greeted with some pretty grey skies as we made our way into town by taxi. (Cab costs approx 25 Euros one way)

Our first cabbie of the day was quite a character....we asked him to drop us off at Christchurch Cathedral and he dropped us at the wrong cathedral! Who'd have thought that a cabbie wouldn't know the major tourist attractions after (according to him) he's lived here his entire life and been driving cab for 9 years!!!

We finally located Christchurch and Dublinia (another attraction that has lots of info about the arrival of the Vikings to this area) thanks to the guidance of folks hiding in doorways along the street. Why were they hiding in doorways you ask? Well....I'll tell you.....it's because we were in the midst of a torrential downpour and let me assure you that when it rains in Ireland....it RAINS! We were soaked to the skin in no time as we made our way down the street realizing that it was far too late for us to look for a doorway to hide in.

We spent enough time in Dublinia and Christchurch to dry off a little before braving the elements again. Amazingly....and this is a common pattern in Ireland from what we've observed.....the roads were dry and the sun was shining ..... it was as though not a drop had fallen! But....within minutes the clouds had gathered once more and before we knew it our hoods were back up and our previously nearly dry clothes were on their way to being soaking wet again.

We located a pub to "hide" in and since we were 'hiding-out' in a pub....there was little else to do but grab a little pub grub and something to wash it down with. By the time we were back to the streets.....yes....you know it....the sun was shining and the streets were dry once more!

Local folks here say that a typical weather forecast is that "it will rain till it stops with intermittent sunny periods throughout the day. Clouds are likely for much of the day and you may see some foggy patches when the sun isn't shining through." Basically....my take on it is that they don't have a clue so they cover all their bases just to be on the safe side.

You'll not be surprised to hear that within a couple of blocks of our return to the street....the rain began to fall once more so by the time we arrived at the Guinness Brewery we looked much like the sorry drowned rats we were.

The Brewery was interesting and the 7th floor (the Gravity Bar) provides an outstanding view of the city. And wouldn't you know it.....whenever we're inside anywhere...there isn't a drop of rain falling! By the time we came out of the Brewery the rain had begun to fall once more and we were all ready for a place to dry off so we caught a cab back to our hotel where tea and cookies and a nice warm room were waiting for us.

I'm laughing as I type this....it is just after 10:00 pm here and everyone but me is in bed (nothing new in my world). All three of them (Rob, Jenna, and mom) are ready to head for home and have been for at least a day. Rob is planning his shopping trip to duty free, he's looking for a watch that will suit his new appointment as a marriage commissioner so mom and I are going to get to "help" him find that perfect accessory at the Dublin Airport. Gotta love shopping when it isn't your own money that you're spending :)

I guess I'd better sign off for now and get myself packed for our departure in the morning. It's been another great adventure but as much as I've enjoyed being here....the "Irish Mist" is wearing thin and I'm ready for a little Okanagan sun to soak up.

See you all soon,
L

Monday, July 13, 2009

July 13, 2009

Whew! Handed the car back into the rental agency this afternoon so am off the driving hook for the remainder of our trip. In truth...it wasn't really all that bad. The first couple of hours were a little challenging as that included getting out of Dublin but once I reconnected the rusty links in my brain from the last time I did this wrong side of the road stuff....it wasn't bad at all. In fact....It's really part of the adventure :) Had great navigators for the trip so all I really had to do was keep it between the ditches....and although we had a moment of adreniline earlier today...for the most part I did alright if I do say so myself.

We're back in Dublin - arrived at our hotel here about 4 this afternoon so after a shower to recover from our Newgrange experience (I'll explain in a minute) we were off to Temple
Bar area of downtown Dublin for dinner and a wee wander around. It's a lively spot in the heart of the city and boasts a very international flavour with the tourists from all over the world who gather there to experience the pub culture that Ireland is so famous for. We had pub grub in Sir Gogherty's (along with a glass of Guiness of course) and then spent a little time checking out a few other shops and wandering along the road eavesdropping on the music that spills out the doors as patrons come and go.

I should really go back in time a little though as it's been a few days since I've been able to add to this blog as there is no wireless at Derrygoony (the farm).....

We arrived at the farm after a good days drive from Portrush in the north. Although we had some nasty weather along the way...the drive was relatively easy as Rob had settled into his role of navigator with his multiple maps and guide books for reference.

We received the royal welcome at the farm when we drove up the lane.....everyone came out to greet us at our arrival. As amazing as this may sound....within minutes of our arrival.....Rob spied a fallen tree that Eric had taken down a couple of years prior (it had died for some unknown reason). The tree had been at least 80 years old and it was a Western Red Cedar....not a tree commonly found in this part of the world so it had to have been planted, likely by one of our ancestors. As luck would have it Eric also had two freshly sharpened chain saws (one large and one small) and within the hour Rob was up on a ladder and carving Ireland's first ever chain saw carving. It turned out beautifully and everyone who came by over the three days we were there was duly impressed. The carving is of an eagle sitting on a tree stump. The piece is about 8 feet tall and now sits where the original tree once stood....so it's back in it's home and looking better than ever. Rob only used 1/2 of the log so perhaps Eric will try his hand at the other half. Either that or Rob will have to go back to do a matching piece for them at a later date....who knows....maybe he will.....

In addition to the awesome gift that Rob was able to leave with them (it really is Ireland's first...no one there had ever seen anything like it and only one or two had ever even heard of such a thing as possible)....we enjoyed some great craic sitting around with family and friends in the new addition to the house (they almost doubled the size of the house since I was there last), we attended Thelma and Peter's wedding in the church where the Forde family has been attending for hundreds of years, and the reception that was held in Monaghan (about half an hour away) at the Four Seasons Hotel...a very fancy affair. The reception was a highlight for everyone. Irish weddings really are a wonderful experience and we were so thankful to have had the opportunity to be included. We met so many cousins we didn't know we had and everyone danced till the wee hours of the morning. Mom likened it to a dance of her youth and it was obvious that young and old will remember it with a smile.

The day following the wedding meant a trip back into Monaghan to retrieve the cars (we hired a bus to drive us home after the reception - much safer that way!) and then of course....there was another party with many of the family and friends we'd met the day before dropping by the house for a couple of drinks and some craic. John and Hannah had to leave that morning though so we missed them at the Sunday party but they were on their way to see Bruce Springstein in concert in Dublin that night before their early morning flight on Monday so we didn't feel too sorry for them.

This morning we all shed a few tears as we said good bye to everyone at the farm and hit the road for points south. Our first (and as it turned out...our only)stop was at Newgrange where during our tour the skies absolutely opened up on us and when you're in the middle of a field with nothing to hide under or behind.....there's little to do but get soaking wet....which is exactly what we did. It's too bad that the weather turned so bad during our time there as it made it difficult to enjoy the scenery and the ambiance of the place but we did get into the centre chamber and that for me was another highlight. When I think of the fact that Newgrange pre dates the pyramids in Egypt and Stonehenge in England by centuries.....it's hard to believe that we were able to walk right into the centre chamber of the megolith. Imagining the work that went into the getting of the materials (rocks that weigh up to 10 tons each) and then the building of the structure that is the size of a football field....is almost overwhelming. It is estimated that Newgrange would have taken up to 15 years to build. Anyway....it's still on my top 10 places to see in the world!

We had planned to stop at the Hill of Tara today too but the weather just wouldn't cooperate so we pressed on with wipers going at full speed and made it back just in time to get the car turned in without incurring too many additional late charges. Now that the car has been handed in and I'll assume that no one from the rental company will be reading this....I can say that while on our journey...we lost a hub cap but as luck would have it....mom and I found one near Dunguaire Castle (early in our travels). The hub cap didn't match but...it was roughly the right colour and it did fit the rim so....just before we handed the car back in, Rob jumped out, popped on the "new" hub cap, and during the walk around everyone held their breath .......we passed the visual test - whew!!!

Which brings me back to the beginning of this post....we're in the hotel and tomorrow will be our last full day so we'll try to make the most of it. The weatherman hasn't given us anything we want to hear but we're all counting on a little Irish luck to keep the showers to the times that we're inside one of the sights we'll stop to enjoy.

Till tomorrow......
Lorrie

Thursday, July 9, 2009

July 9, 2009

Started our day off heartily as Erna fed us a massive Irish breakfast of bacon, sausage, pancakes, potato bread, soda bread, egg, mushrooms, tomato, and brown beans. On top of that there was orange juice and tea to drink and all the cereal and toast you could manage.

After bidding her farewell in Portrush, we made our way to the Giant's Causeway, just a few miles down the road.....which reminds me....did you know that in Northern Ireland the speed limits are all in miles per hour and in the Republic of Ireland they're all in kilometers?

In addition to the differences in speed and distance measurements we noticed a few other little changes between the two countries too. We tend to think of Ireland as all being one place but it is so obvious when you're here and passing between the two countries that they're really quite unique from one another. In addition to the obvious....one country uses pound sterling and the other uses euros for currency....we became acutely aware of the differences in the state of the roads having travelled on them for many hours. Generally speaking the north has better rural roads but the south has superior motorways (major highways). The houses in north are usually more neutral in colour whereas the homes in the Republic are often brightly painted. The price of gas in the Republic is about 1.18 Euros/litre ($1.92 CAD) and in the North it is about 1.06 pounds/litre ($2.01 CAD) The south is ribboned with stone fences and cross fences whereas the north uses a lot more wood in their fencing. The accents of the people are quite different from one another but the thing they definitely both have in common is the friendly nature of their residents.

But I digress.....the Giant's Causeway is a wonder of nature and I am thankful to have been able to experience both ends (Scottish and Irish) of that phenomenon. We hiked down to the waters edge and wandered among the basalt pillars scanning the area for the landmarks that the signs encourage you to look for. While we didn't have a lot of luck with that part of the adventure...we certainly enjoyed our time there and mom and I were more than a little thankful for the shuttle bus that was available to carry us the 1.5 km back up the hill. Rob and Jenna were far more enthusiastic and hiked their way back up too!

The legend that is attached to the Giant's Causeway is that there were two Giant's who were bitter enemies. One lived in Scotland and the other in Ireland. One of them built the Causeway to be able to gain access to his enemy so he could defeat him in battle. The Irish Giant (Sean) heard that the Scottish Giant (Finn) was massive in size and so became afraid that he wouldn't be able to win the battle unless he used his creative wit. He went home where his wife dressed him up as a baby before Finn arrived to do battle. When Finn arrived at the home of Sean....only his wife and 'baby' were there. Sean's wife explained that Sean was out fishing and hunting and that he wouldn't be home for some time. When Finn saw how big Sean's 'baby' was....he determined that the father must be even more massive than he and so he changed his mind about doing battle and returned to Scotland instead. Another great ancient legend that is rife with wisdom.....

After the Causeway....we made our way to the town of Bushmills where we toured the distillery that has been in operation for more than 400 years! It was an interesting tour and the tasting at the end was yummy.

From Bushmills....we travelled in a southerly direction stopping at interesting points along the way. We came across a wonderful castle that was perched on the edge of the cliffs so took some time to check it out before making our way to a series of standing stone circles that have been carbon dated to more than 4000 years old. Little is clearly understood about the purpose of the standing stone circles but none the less...there is no question that they played a significant role in the lives of the people who walked this land thousands of years ago. We continued along for the rest of our journey jumping back and forth from main highways to rural back country roads and saw some amazing scenery along the way.

Our journey ended tonight in Cavan as we arrived at Farnham House B & B where we'll spend just one night before moving on to the Forde family farm.

Yes....it was another great day in this land of leprachans and fairies.

Till the next time....
L x 2

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

July 8, 2009

The drive today from Galway to Portrush took most of the day and was absolutely gorgeous. We travelled through Donegal and Derry along with numerous other small towns along the way. There were the requisite 100 shades of green and the fields were cross fenced with those great rock walls that we've all decided will be one of our most memorable images from this part of the world. They seem so stable, so solid, so simple and yet so complex and each of them is a work of art unlike any other. The science that must have gone into building them in order for them to have been able to withstand all that they've experienced in the time they've stood guard over their fields is impressive.

There were blue skies most of the way and even when the clouds rolled in...they only brought a few drops of rain before they made way for the sunshine again. Cows and sheep dotted the fields along the roadways and on the hillsides that were the view we had as we rounded every corner and crested every hill.

We visited a couple of castles along the way too. The first was a ruin where we were able to wander about as we pleased and the second was in Donegal and had been somewhat restored to a portion of what it would have been in it's prime. From the steep and narrow curving stone stairs to the oversized fireplaces....if I squinted my eyes just a little I could almost smell something roasting in the kitchen and hear the bustle of people going about their daily business in the castle and on the grounds. It's easy to believe in magic when you're in a magical land!

The drive today was the longest we've done and with all four of us in the car along with all the luggage....it was a little tight (oh yes...we have a micro sized car and the only one of us that is really micro sized is Jenna....so I'll leave you to imagine just what we might look like coming down the road.) It's all good though...Rob managed to put the luggage into the hatchback like a puzzle and he fit in about twice as much as I thought possible so in the back seat there is only one large packsack and two people....not nearly as bad as it might have been!

Now that I've left you all with a perfect image of our journey....I'll add the bits that will complete the picture for you.....

  • Rob forgot to return his B & B key in Galway so we had to stop and find a post office so he could mail it back.
  • There are not a lot of public toilets along the road. Castle ruins sometimes make do.
  • Turkish Delight chocolate bars melt in the sun.
  • In sympathy for Jenna, mom has put band aids on her knees too.
  • Roundabouts can be difficult!!
  • Roads have no shoulders (or verges as they're called here) and there are more pot holes than pavement on many of them.
  • The entire country has done away with street signs.
  • No one in Ireland really knows where they are.....they all need to ponder their current location when asked for directions and even then....often make up the answer knowing full well that it's all blarney. The only way to ensure finding where you're going is to get the same instruction from at least three people before you can believe it to be true.

Well....that was our day and at the end of the road we made it to Portrush where we checked into the Anvershiel B & B with hosts Erna and Victor. Our rooms are gorgeous and Erna is a wonderful host. Interestingly, I would have bet that she was from Scotland based on her accent but...she is from very near here. When I asked her about it she said that people think she is from Scotland all the time but that her's is the accent common to people from the area around Derry. I guess that's cuz we're in Northern Ireland now - a part of the U.K. We had a great walk along the promenade that follows the white sandy beaches that this part of the island is famous for. The sand is sugary fine and beautifully white. The waves crash in over it and it's so beautiful! The only thing that isn't so good is that the temperatures are not really conducive to swimming. The wind whips in off the water and most of the people who are in the water (and there aren't very many of them) are wearing wet suits.

Even though it's kind of chilly....it really is a beautiful place and tomorrow morning I'm looking forward to visiting that natural wonder, the Giant's Causeway.

till next time.....
L & L

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

July 7th cont'd

Wow! Just back from Trad on the Prom (tradontheprom.com) and what a show!! Not only were the performers unbelievably talented but the show they put on was without questions one of the most professional productions I've had the pleasure to attend.

The performers had resume's that included starring in shows such as Riverdance and Lord of the Dance, they had written award winning music, had performed internationally at high end venues, and all were Irish.

Our evening began with a really nice dinner at the Salthill Hotel (the venue for the show), had a fabulous show in the middle, and ended with us getting lost (well...only slightly lost) on the way home. Driving here is a challenge by the light of day but in the dark....it's a whole new experience.

Better run for now as morning will come early....we're off to Northern Ireland tomorrow. Hopefully will be able to send an update from Portrush where we'll spend the night but if no wireless there it will likely be some time before we can post again as I don't know that there will be wireless in Cavan or at the farm. Will just have to wait and see.

Till next time.....
L & L

July 7, 2009

Well.....I almost killed mom but boy oh boy is Galway a nice city to wander around in when the sun is shining!!

After another great breakfast (I could get used to having someone serve me b'fast every day!!) we donned our rain jackets (we're learning....) and set off for the centre of town where there is a pedestrian zone that runs for several blocks. There are musicians on every corner, some great shops, some tasty looking eating spots, and even a pub or two.

We passed the pub that Rob and I closed down last night - yep...we shut her down! We shopped along the way and Rob even fed some of the swans and other water fowl that live along the waterways.

Galway Bay is super pretty when the sun is shining and the city is perfectly situated to make the most of the views.

Tonight we're off to have dinner and to see a show....it's a live performance that includes irish dance, singing, and music. We're all looking forward to it.

We've just discovered that Jenna has nothing to wear for the wedding so tomorrow we'll be shopping for something conservative (just like the rest of her clothes LOL). Given the prices here....she'll have to extend her student loans to be able to make the necessary purchase. We've looked through her pack and found that what she thought she could wear is much too revealing (she did her shopping in an adult section of Paris on her Contiki tour) so......it's time for her to go shopping with Grandma.

Enough for now.... time for us to hit the road again....

till next time,
L & L

Monday, July 6, 2009

July 6, 2009

Wahoo! We have access to internet again so I've posted the "bit" from the 4th of July and now have a couple of days of catching up to do.



I guess the biggest news is that now we are four. Rob and Jenna have given up on the biking idea after a couple of events that left them thinking they'd had enough. They're both fine though and have had a wonderful experience that they'll carry with them forever. They've met up with us at our B & B in Galway City this afternoon and so the four of us will have a couple of days to explore and have a little adventure in this corner of Ireland.



We've had a lot of rain the past couple of days. Yesterday, mom and I spent the day on the smallest of the Aran Islands, Inis Oirr (pronounced Inisheer). The population of that quaint little island is approximately 300 and although they have a few cars....for the most part it is like taking a big step back in time. We took a pony and cart ride to tour the island and our driver, Joe, has been on the island his whole life. His parents and his grandparents too....hard to imagine what kind of a life they must have lived. We learned quite a lot from Joe - it was a really interesting tour. One of the big things we learned was that all of the rock fences (4 feet to 6 feet high) were built by hand....the builders having carried most of them from the edge of the sea. Back in the day that they were built...there were no gates put into the fenced areas so any time that you wanted to take your cows out of your pasture you had to disassemble the section of the fence that is less stable (a planned section for just this purpose),take the cows out, rebuild the fence....drive your cows to another pasture you want them to spend the day in....do the same thing with the fence at the new location and then at the end of the day....go to where your cows are...disassemble the fence, take the cows out, rebuild the fence, drive the cows home and then take the fence down there, put the cows in and rebuild that fence. Whew....just telling about it makes me tired!!

We had a great lunch in the pub on the island and mingled with the combination of locals and tourists that had travelled to the island on the boat with us. Our boat ride over to Inisheer was longer than most as we added on the Cliffs of Mohr tour first. On our tour to the Cliffs we saw countless sea birds including lots of puffins. The Cliffs are massive - they range from 300-700 feet high with towers perched at strategic locations with a view of the sea in all directions. The Cliffs span an 8 km stretch of coastline and so when you combine their vast size with the contrasting colours of the sea, the sky, and the cliffs from an ocean perspective it's something to remember.

By the time we had finished our hour tour of the Cliffs, it was time to head out again for the trip to Inisheer...almost another hour on the boat. By this point I was beginning to remember why I don't get on boats very often and that the Atlantic Ocean is a little rougher than the lake. We finally arrived at the island and I was glad for dry land. The land didn't stay dry for long though as the rain that was beginning to fall in Doolin as we pulled out an hour before caught up with us on Inisheer.

So....we walked, we admired the white sand beach where kids were playing in the waves, we had tea in a tea room, enjoyed lunch in a pub, rode the horse and buggy, and admired the beautiful scenery. All too soon it was time to board the boat again and this time...the rain followed us right back to Doolin...in fact....it poured buckets most of the way back. By the time we pulled into the queue waiting to disembark their passengers (we were 4th in line) in Doolin - I had seen enough of boats for a very long time.

By the time we were able to disembark, the pouring rain had turned into torrential rains and we were 100% soaked by the time that we back in our car. What an adventure!

Back at our room we took some time to dry off and warm up and then we were off to McDermott's Pub where we had possibly the best meal of our entire trip. After dinner it was back to the room and an early night after a day full of fresh air with sun and wind burn.

This morning we said good bye to Mary Jo at Seaside B & B in Doolin and were off into the Burren where we found ourselves on some of the narrowest roads in all of Ireland. Some of them even had grass growing through the pavement in the middle of the road!

We located the oldest and largest dolmen (a 6000 year old burial stone that is shaped like a table) and got caught in the rain again. Next stop was the Burren Perfumerie where once again we were caught in a downpour - there is a lot of rain in Ireland!

Leaving the Burren brought us back past the castle where we had dinner a couple of nights before and within an hour we were rolling into Galway where we located the Periwinkle B & B and found Rob and Jenna already checked into their room. We were able to make arrangements for accomodations for them at our B & B in the north too so all is good and everyone will have a place to sleep until we make our way to the farm where a whole new adventure will begin.

After a walk into Galway City tonight for dinner....we're all pretty beat so it will likely be a pretty early night tonight.

Till next time,
L x 2

July 4, 2009

July 4th, 2009

If it’s raining at the same time as the sun is shining.....you must be in Ireland.

If there are a bunch of boyos standing out in front of the local pub in their Sunday best having a pint and a fag after their buddy’s wedding...you must be in Ireland.

If there are rosy cheeked children running and playing in the rain with no jacket on.....you must be in Ireland.

If there are millions of rocks that have been piled into ‘fences’ to separate the fields....you must be in Ireland.

If the road is much too narrow for the vehicles traveling on it and the speed limit far too high for the road conditions....you must be in Ireland.

If there are people with a twinkle in their eye, smiling and nodding as they pass you....you must in Ireland.

If there’s a castle on the horizon in the distance....you must be in Ireland.

If the fields are greener than green and the flowers more colourful that usual....you must be in Ireland.

If the houses and the shops are all painted a different bright colour...you must be in Ireland.

And....if there are shouts of gladness and support coming from a local pub where a rugby game is being broadcast.....you must be in Ireland.

Well.....welcome to our world because we are in Ireland and enjoyed each of these sights and sounds again today.

Last night saw me back in the pub at Coosan Cottage but this time mom joined in the craic and we were entertained by Mikey (the barman who is planning to visit Canada for a year beginning this November), Tommy (owner of Coosan Cottage), and Robby (aka T-Bone Wobby – twubble wif a capital T). Robby truly is a character and I can believe that he could be trouble given the opportunity. We were regaled with their tales of woe as the Irish culture takes a page from the Americas where the guarda (police) are unlikely to use any discretion in dealing with locals who need to get home from the pub after a couple of pints. Mike, Tom and Rob all agreed that Ireland was headed for the toilet as a result of this shift in ideology. I must say that they put up a fine argument and I’m inclined to think there might be some truth in their position.

Regardless of my thoughts on the matter...it must be said that the Irish definitely have the gift of the gab and that they’re able to talk such a good tale, are likely to have an advantage in a disagreement. Tommy told us a story last night about some of his experiences with recent events where bureaucratic systems became involved in local community disputes. His description was captivating and his telling of the outcome was brilliant....I’d pay to see him deliver the story again on stage.

This morning dawned another “potentially” lovely day. Following another great breakfast with Tom at Coosan Cottage we packed up and hit the trail again. We’re both beginning to get the hang of reading the road signs and I’m becoming more comfortable each day with this wrong side of the road business. By the time I get home....I’ll be just like T-Bone Wobby, in real trouble....I won’t know which side of the car to get into and I’ll think that it’s a simple thing to turn left and a challenge to turn right.

We started out this morning with a quick stop at the end of Coosan Point Rd where we had a view across the lake of Hodson’s Bay. The boys had told us about it last night as we’d been talking about the fact that there was a Hudson’s Bay in Canada. From there we found our way to N6 and hit the motorway for points West. We waved good bye to Athlone as we sped along toward Galway and in no time at all we were pulling into the little town of Bullaun where we took the opportunity to visit the original site of one of the ancient Turoe stones that dates back to 300 BC. About two years ago the stone was enclosed in a small shed with only 2 windows for viewing. The purpose of the shed is to protect the stone from the elements as it has deteriorated so significantly in the past 30 years after not having deteriorated much at all in the past 2000!

The reason for the increased speed of aging and damage to the stone is pollution and the thinning of the o-zone. It is sad to think that our pollutants could damage something so quickly after it has been just fine for so many many years. The stone is right next to a Petting Zoo so we stopped in the cafe there and had a cup of tea while watching the crowds of kids running around at the zoo. It’s Saturday today so the roads are busier than ever and there are loads of people about (both tourists and locals). Soon we were back in the car and en route to Kinvara (population 400) for a walk around town before heading to Dunguaire Castle for dinner. What a lovely little town, positioned right on the edge of Galway Bay. In fact.....I’m sitting on a park bench at the water’s edge as I type this. There are birds everywhere and boats coming and going and lots of colourful shops and homes dotting the hills of the town. Oh Oh....here comes the rain again so I am now sitting in the car at the edge of the water in Kinvara typing this missive.....

Dinner at Dunguaire Castle was grand, as they say in Ireland. The Castle was built in 1520 and all the walls are six feet thick to ensure the indoor temperatures stay the same year round. We were greeted in the entry hall by a woman in period dress who offered us a glass of mead (honey wine). It was delicious so I had two glasses! Following some entertainment suited to the 1500’s we were led up two flights of curved stairs to the main dining room where two of the guests for dinner were selected to be King and Queen for the evening and given the responsibility of presiding over their guests. The King and Queen turned out to be a couple celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary. She was originally from Ireland and he from England but they had been living in New Zealand for the past 50 years. It was her first time home and an emotional experience for her. Dinner consisted of an appetizer of cold smoked salmon, potato and leek soup with Irish Soda bread, a main course of chicken breast with mushroom gravy, potatoes, green beans and carrots and apple pie with whipped cream for dessert. It was all delicious and by the time we rolled down the stairs two hours later...we were stuffed! Throughout the meal we were entertained by the same performers who had greeted us in the entry hall and they did an admirable job of providing a “feel” for the times. We weren’t out of the Castle until 8:00 p.m. so had our fingers crossed that we’d make it to Doolin before dark.

The road from Kinvara to Doolin definitely wins the prize for being the roughest so far. We keep thinking about Rob and Jenna riding on these roads without shoulders while dodging the rain drops and the cars that careen along them at 100 km/hr (the posted speed). We sped along with the rest of the traffic and made it to Doolin in one hour with plenty of light to spare. It’s 10:15 right now and it’s still light out! We’re heading off to the pub so may report back in later.

Having trouble locating internet here though so it may be a couple of days till I can post this missive to the web.

Till next time,
Lorrie

Friday, July 3, 2009

July 3, 2009

Did you know that the Irish count differently?? Well they do.....on the highway the exits go like this......7,8,4,3.....and when 3 is the one that you're looking for what are the odds that you'll find it?! The really crazy part is that mom and I have both already caught whatever bug it is that causes you to understand this unusual way to count and we're now able to find our way around Athlone. In fact....when we want to come back to Coosan Cottage (our Guesthouse) we simply make our way back into the centre of town (even when that is in the wrong direction); find the castle, do the one way loop with about 500 of our new best friends who must also be looking for "home"; make our way to the mini roundabout at the top of the hill; go the wrong way at least once so we have to make our way back to the roundabout at the top of the hill and try another direction; go down at least two dead end streets where there is no where to turn around safely; find the petrol station where a taxi driver once helped me; turn around; go to the car lot at the top of the hill; take a left; go along till you think you're going to get in an accident and then turn left quickly again; go past the turn to N6 West; drive till you're in the roundabout where the first exit is N6 East - take it quickly!!; and then go along at 120 km/hr till you veer off to the left again at exit number 3 (that comes after 7 & 8 & 4...)and then veer left a couple more times till you think you're lost again and then you'll see a huge old cemetery on the left and magically the Guesthouse will appear on your right - it really feels like a miracle every time you do it!!!

We started the day with Tom, our host, cooking us a "full Irish Breakfast" which means we ate wayyy tooo much meat this morning! It was delicious though and kept us going till dinner time. That is a really good thing when you take into consideration the price of meals here!

We explored the city (on foot) but missed our Viking Boat down the Shannon as it was on the other side of the river and was casting off by the time we reached the 1/2 way point on the bridge. No worries though....we figured there had to be a reason that we didn't get to go on it...maybe it was going to sink or something...well...I hope not ....but maybe it was the fact that the rain came down in torrents while we would still have been out on that boat. We had a great time exploring instead. The town is full of really old buildings that surround the Castle that is the centre of town. The buildings that house the shops, offices and homes are all brightly coloured with orange up against pink, and peacock blue next door to lime green. There is even a pub called Sean's Bar (red with white trim and a green door) that is has been operating as a pub since the year 900 AD. According to Guiness Book of World Records....Sean's is the oldest pub in all of Europe and there is research underway to confirm that it is in fact the oldest pub in all the world. How cool is that!! The Castle that is at the Centre of town was built by guys who went for a drink after work across the street at Sean's Bar!!!

We had tea upstairs (3 flights of 'upstairs' no less!) in an art shop, saw our first gypsies on the street, bought a treat from a street market, explored the nooks and crannies of interesting shops and shop windows, and walked off some of that big breakfast we'd enjoyed. When our feet had had enough...we returned to our little car and headed off for Clonmacnoise....if the Viking Ship wasn't going to take us....we'd make our own way there. Driving to Clonmacnoise was a whole other adventure but just leave it to say that the speed limit on the back roads here is 100 km/hr and the roads are more like "lanes" that were paved about 100 years ago. There is absolutely no shoulder and the trees and bushes are chopped off at right angles to the road by the vehicles that speed past them daily...trimming them to within an inch of their lives. The buses and trucks that speed toward you come barreling down the middle of the "lane" so you have to always be looking ahead to plan where you can find a spot to pull off just enough to give the larger vehicle room to barrel on through.

Much of our drive to Clonmacnoise (about 25 minutes away) was pouring with rain but by the time we arrived at our destination...the sun was shining and the sky was that perfect shade of blue with fluffy white clouds decorating it above the ancient monastic site that sits on the edge of the river amidst lush green fields that stretch into the distance. The pilgrimage trail that leads from an overland point is stilll visible from the site and the place has a quiet strength about it that likely comes from the fact that it was attacked by several different groups and virtually destroyed 54 times over a period of a couple hundred years until the final time, attack #55, when the attackers pilaged the place to such a degree that there was nothing left for the monks and residents to rebuild. Since that time, Clonmacnoise has been in ruins but to this day....thousands of people continue to visit the site to learn about that part of Ireland's history.

Our drive home from Clonmacnoise left us lost again (of course) but we're getting pretty comfortable with being lost so we made the most of our "detour" and stopped at a little art gallery/coffee shop for an early dinner. The dinner was very good, we got some directions, and in no time at all were back on the right road that eventually took us right to the heart of Athlone and well.....you know the story from there.....once we find the Castle then we make the one way loop with 500 of our new friends etc etc etc. We made it back to the Guesthouse in good time and there was Tom with his ever ready smile and a cup of tea waiting for our return.

The beds at this Guesthouse are great and they'll feel really good again tonight. Lot's of fresh air and exercise with minimal sleep is an excellent way to ensure no one stays up too late on this trip. In case we do decide to stay up a little bit late though...we're lucky because there is a tiny little pub/lounge that is right here on the premises of the Guesthouse. I had a drink last night after mom went to bed and it was so nice not to have to drive anywhere afterward.

We're really hoping that the rest of our group in Ireland is doing okay...there were reports of flooding due to torrential rains in Galway/Conemara area last night so we're hoping that Rob and Jenna are able to either dodge the rain drops or that the rain only falls at night. I think John and Hannah have one more night in Dublin before they head to the farm so our fingers are crossed that all is going well for their adventure too.

Till next time....
L & L

p.s.
Happy Birthday Kim!!

Thursday, July 2, 2009

July 2, 2009

Faith and begora.....sure and we're here.....in the land of leprechans, fairies, Guiness, and great craic (that's the word for laughter and fun in Irish)...

It was a long journey; complicated by the fact that we were an hour late in departing, with a stop in Calgary to drop off and pick up passengers and fuel (go figure...a stop on a direct flight!!). The flight itself was okay if you overlook small issues such as tiny seats with NO leg room, a pilot who likely only had a learners permit based on his crazy landings, a cup of tea that cost $5 Cdn, a flight crew who didn't really look like they wanted to be there, and a plane that was full to the wings with passengers.

The time passed reasonably quickly though and Hannah managed to sing her way through about a thousand of the songs on John's ipod to help pass the time. She and John were seated beside a very nice woman who was returning home to Waterford from a holiday in Vancouver that she enjoyed so much she was left with a plan to return in the fall with her husband and to work.

Mom was also seated by a really nice fellow from Waterford who was returning home from a vacation in Vancouver that he enjoyed so much......sound familiar?? well....I'd say that Vancouver was a hit with all the Irish people who had been there on vacation that we bumped into and that our population is set for an increase in immigrants from Eire.

Rob also had a really nice woman as his seat partner and it was great to see him talking up a storm with her as they passed the time.

I was seated with a lovely couple who boarded the plane in Calgary en route to their home in Northern Ireland. They too had spent a month in Canada (this seems to be the preferred length of stay for the Irish visitors we met). Her sister has lived in Calgary for many years and so she and her husband visit as often as they can.

Due to our late departure and additional stop in Calgary, we didn't arrive in Dublin till about 12:30 so by the time we were through customs, in receipt of our luggage, and out the door to the area where Jenna was waiting....there were only minutes to spare for Rob and Jenna as they raced to catch their flight to Galway. We still don't know if they made it but we waited around for a short while and they never re-appeared so we're guressing that they did. John and Hannah headed for their shuttle to the hotel and mom and I took off in the direction of the rental car lot. It didn't take long before I was behind the wheel of a tiny little Nissan and driving on the wrong side of the road as we wheeled our way out of the lot and onto the thoroughfare with all the other crazy drivers. From that point onward...the adventure was thick and sticky. I use the words thick and sticky as they're the only ones I can think of to explain the fact that by the time I got out of the car a couple of hours later I felt as though I needed a good long shower! Mom's directions got us onto the right road as we headed out for Athlone....although there is a strange phenomonem in Ireland where they seem to interchange the highway numbers that begin with the letters M and N with one another at will. We arrived in Athlone on schedule but that was where the good directions and the good luck with the driving ended for us....we searched high and low, we asked several people for directions,we visited the Info Centre, and yet we were still without our accommodation. In the end, and with the help of a taxi driver, we were able to locate the Coosan Cottage Eco Guest House where we were greeted with a warm smile, a hot cup of (the most delicious) tea, and a cool breeze blowing over us as we lounged in the lounge while our host carried our bags to our room.

Prior to locating our helpful taxi driver.....we had given up our search and stopped in the hearth of Athlone for dinner (even though it was only about 8:00 a.m. in BC). We were dog tired and thought that a little sustenance might keep us afloat long enough to locate our beds. I had forgotten how expensive restaurant meals are over here but was reminded as soon as I opened the menu. We were in a small pub that had been recommended for it's good food ad great prices. Let me just say that my burger was 13.50 Euros (approx $22 Cdn) and that meal won't live long in my memory for anything other than the fact that it was expensive. But enough of that.....as I said before.....here I sit at our Guest House with nothing but compliments and enthusiasm for the adventure we're on.

Guess I'd better go for now....till next time,
Lorrie

p.s.
did I mention that my host made me a lovely long and deliciously sweet, Black Russian that I'm sipping on as I type this.

Hope this finds you all well....
L

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

July 1, 2009

Happy Birthday Canada!

We're all here and the Vancouver Airport really is one of the most beautiful airports in the world!! All 5 of us are sitting in the departure lounge and ready for our flight....still almost an hour until boarding time though.

Mom and I arrived at the same time as Rob, and John and Hannah were here before we knew it. In true Forde fashion there was a bit of a story though.....John and Hannah's tickets weren't on record (due to the last minute nature of their purchase) so there was a moment of excitement and the agent had to contact Globespan headquarters to confirm John and Hannah on our flight. It was just a little excitement to shake things up though and in the end we all cleared security together.

The drive forMom and I into Vancouver was easy and the sun shone all the way for our send off. We made excellent time and arrived at Carolyn's condo in Yaletown ahead of schedule. Dropped off my bags for the return trip, parked the car, and made arrangements with the concierge for a taxi to take us to the airport. Within minutes our cab driver arrived driving a Toyota Prius. It was a first for both mom and I and we were amazed by the ample room inside that seemingly little car. Our driver was a friendly fellow and before we knew it we had a full understanding of just how a hybrid works and the potential for savings in the cost of operation. By the time we reached the airport it was obvious that our driver should be getting a paycheck from Toyota as he was possibly their best amassador. I told him as much and he agreed to look me up to give me a kickback on his first million in commissions from Toyota once he had conviced them he deserved to be paid for the customers he sends their way. It really is a good idea.....a business card that says...."taxi driver/roving car rep"......maybe I should patent the idea and get in at ground level :-)

Our personalities are showing up as we sit here waiting to board our flight.....Hannah is talking talking talking while mom is listening listening listening to her stories. John has already seen at least one person he knows, Rob is off for a walk to check out the place, and I am documenting the experience while I guess what the other people sitting in the airport might do in their day to day lives.

Hmmmm.....let's see....a lovely specimin just walked by and as luck would have it he appears to be the pilot for our plane :-) Directly across from me is an elderly gentleman dressed in his Sunday best who is also en route to Dublin. I know that because he has been in every line we've been in since arriving at the airport and in the first one he asked if this was the line up for Dublin. There is a man sitting near him who must be an accountant or something like that as he looks like he's never seen the sun andthen there is the girl sitting across from him who is texting like there is no tomorrow....She has more carry on luggage than a small army would need .... I wonder how she made it through security with all of that!!?? Ah yes....people watching in the airport is an interesting way to pass the time.

Speaking of time....time for me to sign off now and go for a little wander before we get on that 10 hour flight!!

Next time I write...we'll be on the Emerald Isle and driving on the wrong side of the road from the wrong side of the car.

Lorrie

June 30th cont'd

In the timeless words of Willie Nelson......”On the road again”.......yes.....that’s exactly where we are.....

Left S’land a little later than anticipated but made good time to our destination for this evening – Kay’s in Agassiz. Had a great dinner, time for a visit, an opportunity to see all of her pictures from her latest cruise through the Panama, and even watch a movie that featured scenes and actors from Ireland – just to get us in the mood.

Got some really good news today too!!! John and Hannah will be joining us after all – wahoo!! In fact, they’ll be on the same plane as us now so all of us will travel to Dublin together – what fun!!

This is going to be a great adventure ... mom even found two (yes, two) lucky pennies on the sidewalk tonight so there is no doubt about the fact that all will go well for us over the coming weeks.

Off to bed now for another big day tomorrow...leavin on a jet plane......yikes! can’t get the songs out of my head tonight! Must be way too happy :-)

Till next time,
Lorrie

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

June 30, 2009

Well.....I've done it again.......it's the wee hours of the morning and here I am just finishing up my packing.....nothing like leaving it till the last minute :) It's all good though...don't leave till noon tomorrow so can sleep in a little and then it's off to pick up mom for our drive to the coast where we'll overnight before catching our flight on Wednesday. What a way to celebrate Canada Day - flying right over the entire country from the Pacific to the Atlantic and then some :) We'll have a chance to be reminded just how large Canada is as that part of the flight will take up a lot of the time we have to spend in the air....it's a 10 hour flight in all so by the time we land in Dublin..we'll be ready to get off that plane!! In addition to the long flight...we'll also have a +8 hour time difference so we'll have to adjust our internal clocks to the 'new' time and keep right on going.

There have been some ups and downs in the past couple of days leading up to our departure. The biggest "up" is that mom sold her place today - the subjects are off and all that's left is some paperwork so she'll be able to take off on this trip with a clear mind as relates to all matters having to do with real estate. The "down" is a really big one too and it is that John and Hannah weren't able to board their flight to Dublin today as planned due to the flu :( It's been rampant in their house and it's a really bad bug that leaves it's victim unfit for travel (or for anything in fact). It is a huge disappointment for everyone and although we're still hopeful that something will change in the next day or two....we're also fully prepared for them not being able to be there at all.

Guess I'd better finish up here and get the last couple of items stuffed into my bag....(and I do mean stuffed - I decided to go with the smaller bag so it's a pretty tight fit!) Tomorrow is the start to a new adventure so I'd best get some sleep too :)

Till soon.....
Lorrie

Friday, June 19, 2009

June 19, 2009

One more week of work and it's holiday time again :) Wahoo!!

We've got our euros, our suitcases are out of storage, the washer and dryer are hard at work and soon we'll be packed and on the road.

Looking forward to sharing the adventures we uncover along the way.....

Till soon,
L

Sunday, May 24, 2009

May 24, 2009

It's hard to believe that May is reaching it's end.....and that means that June is just around the corner! A year ago when the invitation to attend Thelma's wedding in Ireland arrived, it seemed so long away but now that departure day is only about a month away preparations for our upcoming trip will kick into high gear.

There still seems so much to do at work so I'm glad that I took care of most of our travel plans (like booking accomodation) months ago! Getting this blog site set up is one more thing off my 'to do' list.

Our flight departs Vancouver on July 1st but we'll have to leave for Vancouver at least a day ahead so one more week of May and we'll be into our departure month :-) Time to start to get excited!! :-)

I guess the best place to begin this blog is to identify who "we" are and where and why we're off on a little adventure in Ireland.

My name is Lorrie and I'll be travelling with my mom Lorna. One of my brothers, John, will be en route to Dublin a couple of days before us and he'll be travelling with one of his daughters, Hannah. My other brother, Rob, will be on the flight with mom and I and he'll meet up with one of his daughters, Jenna, in Dublin when we land.

We're all making the trip to celebrate the July wedding of one of our Irish cousins, Thelma. Both John and I have been to Ireland before but this will be a first for the rest of our group.

Once we arrive in Dublin, we'll be heading off in three different directions. Each of our mini groups will do their own thing before we all meet again at the family farm in County Monaghan, right at the top of the Irish Republic. Rob and Jenna will be biking around Conamara in County Galway. John and Hannah will explore Dublin before heading directly to the family farm where they'll kick back, spend some time in the pub, and herd a sheep or two as part of the daily farm duties. Mom and I will hit the road in our rental car ..... but I'll leave the specifics of that journey for my subsequent blogs.

So...the flights are booked, the accomodations are confirmed, the car is rented and the plan is in place....all there is left to do now is pack and get excited about another great adventure.

Ireland is an amazing country and I'm looking forward to visiting it again. Not only is it the home of my paternal grandfather but it's also a place where magic still lurks in the corners of castles, where fairies still dance across the green under a veil of mist, and where music and great craic are found in every pub you visit. Oh yes, and I'd be remiss if I didn't add that there is also the occassional mischievious leprachan that will jump out of the bottom of a glass of Guiness as you empty the vessel.

It will be a wonderful trip and a fun one to make with my mom. Till next time......
Lorrie